This is a much overdue post about our trip to Nepal in November 2019. So much has happened since then that has changed the way we look at life in general. We had taken travelling for granted but the current situation makes you put things in perspective. I have been procrastinating writing this for a long time but I realized that I love reading my own trip reports from the past and reminisce the little and big moments that makes a trip memorable.
The countdown to our trip started way back in May 2019 when we booked our flights to Kathmandu. Sahana and I were joined by Jeremy, our ever-willing adventure partner, and his two friends Abhinay and Pranav. We spent the entire summer 2019 training for this as we were sure this was going to be the most physically challenging thing we had ever done in our lives, least of which was the fact that we would be reaching an altitude of 17,500 feet. We completed about 20-25 hikes during that summer which made sure we were in reasonable physical shape. But training ourselves to be prepared for the altitude proved to be a tough ask, as living in the Bay Area, the options are very limited. We hiked up Mt. Dana (13,000 feet) in Yosemite National Park and Palisade Glacier (12,000 feet) near Mammoth Lakes to get some exposure to higher altitudes.
Come November, our nervous excitement had reached it’s peak. It took us 3 full days to go from our doorsteps to the trailhead of the Everest Base Camp trek in Lukla. Even before we reached Kathmandu, we started off on our daily dose of Diamox which was going to be crucial in helping us deal with the high altitude. Our lungs were used to breathing air at sea-level which has ~20% Oxygen levels and it would drop to ~10% during the course of our trek. It would take us a combination of Diamox, acclimatization, common sense and lots of ginger tea to overcome this challenge.
Our team consisted of the five of us. We met Lakpa Sherpa at Kathmandu airport, who was going to be our guide during this trip. We also had help from Sherey, assistant to the Sherpa and 2 porters who would be carrying our big bags to our resting locations every day, while we could have the luxury of walking with just a small day-pack. It’s worth mentioning here the flight from Kathmandu to Lukla. A small 10-seater plane took us to Lukla airport (9,300 feet) which is notoriously known as the world’s most dangerous airport. The airstrip is just over a quarter-mile long, one side of which ends in a steep drop of thousands of feet and the other side ending in the face of a mountain. The flight itself was a great preview of the views that we were going to get in the upcoming days.
After a sumptuous lunch at Lukla, we started off on our 10-day trek. The first day’s trek was an easy-going walk to Phakding (8,500 feet). The trail was a gentle downhill most of the way, where we passed some idyllic settlements filled with colorful prayer-flags and prayer-wheels. We would also have to constantly duck out of the way of yaks, zhukyas (Nepali name for a cross between a cow and a yak), mules and horses. On a couple of occasions we even encountered yak standoffs where yak-trains from opposite direction met head-on on the narrow trail. After brief sessions of snorting and foot-stomping, they would decide to squeeze past one another.
The next day we were headed to Namche Bazar (11,200 feet). This was going to be the start of the real test for us as we were now entering Sagarmatha National Park, of which the mighty Mt. Everest is a part.
The hike up to Namche Bazar was steep and we had to traverse several rope bridges, some of which were at dizzying heights. We checked in to our tea-house in Namche Bazar, which was going to be our accommodation for the next 2 nights. We were immediately greeted by a warm table right next to a furnace and piping hot ginger tea, for which we were so glad. Some of us had started showing some mild effects of the high altitude like headache and indigestion but we were assured that this was normal and shouldn’t worry too much but just to keep drinking lots of tea and take things easy in general.
The next day was designated for acclimatization as we had crossed an altitude of 11,000 feet and our body needed lots of time to adjust to lower levels of Oxygen before we went even higher. While our body slowly acclimatizes, it is important to Climb High, Sleep Low. Ignoring this advice could prove quite fatal. So Lakpa Sherpa took us on a short hike to a nearby viewpoint from where, he promised, we could have our first glimpse of Everest. We were very skeptical because we were greeted by heavy clouds that morning. We were in for a pleasant surprise – as we rounded a corner, the clouds parted ways and we had a sneak peek of Everest, Lhotse and Ama Dablam. That afternoon Lakpa took us to his friend’s house in Namche Bazar and treated us to some delicious momos. We also stopped by at a cafe where we watched a really good documentary called Sherpas – The True Heroes of Mount Everest.
Having sufficiently acclimatized ourselves, the next day we were headed to Tengboche (12,600 feet). The views truly opened up and we were treated to some spectacular views of Everest and Lhotse. Around every corner there would be a surprise which would leave me speechless. I would have considered my trip well-worth even if I had to turn back right there.
Tengboche was quite an interesting place to stay. It had the largest Buddhist monastery in Khumbu valley. It was also the village where the great Tenzing Norgay lived. After visiting the monastery for the evening prayers, we checked into our rooms. This was by far the best view I have ever had from my window. From my bed I had a full view of both Everest and Lhotse towering over the village of Tengboche. The adjoining tea-house even boasted of having pizzas in the menu and we thoroughly enjoyed it. That night, I attempted some amateur night photography but the local dogs did not take too kindly to me, so I had to end my nighttime adventures abruptly.
The next day, we made our way to Dingboche (14,500 feet). Over the course of the day, we could see the flora change drastically from lush green forests to more of an alpine type with hardly any trees or grass. Most of the day we had Ama Dablam (meaning, Mother’s Necklace) towering over us and making her presence felt.
Dingboche was an extremely remote village where even the basic necessities like toilet paper, vegetables etc had to be supplied by helicopters. The tea houses just had the bare necessities and the going was getting difficult. It was interesting how we would have hot-water showers and flush toilets in tea-houses during the early parts of the trek which slowly turned into just a hole in the ground as we got closer to the Everest Base Camp! Night temperatures of -10C at Dingboche combined with the dryness of the high altitude resulted in us feeling cold right to our bones. Thankfully we had invested in some really good sleeping bags which quite literally saved us.
The next day was another acclimatization day where we hiked up to 15,000 feet to a peak called Nangkartshang Peak, just to get more used to the altitude. We were really mind-blown by the sight at this viewpoint. It provided one of the best views yet of our trip. We could see peaks like Ama Dablam, Kantega, Nuptse, Lhotse, Cho Oyu, Imja Tse (Island Peak) in their full glory from this peak. We soaked in this view and returned to our tea-house in Dingboche that afternoon and spent the rest of the day playing Monopoly.
We were now just a couple of days away from the Everest Base Camp and our excitement was slowly building up in anticipation. The next day, we left Dingboche and headed to Lobuche (16,200 feet). This was another difficult hike where every foot of elevation gain seemed to take quadruple the effort for the same at sea-level. We crossed a memorial that was built in memory of all the fallen climbers. We paid our respects here and headed towards Lobuche.
We spent the night at the Pyramid Observatory near Lobuche. Normally, this observatory is used by scientists to stay while studying climate-change in this region but they occasionally allow hikers to spend the night. We happened to get lucky because Lakpa Sherpa pulled some strings and made it happen. The manager of the observatory even gave us a personal tour of the Pyramid. That night, we also ran into a Polish girl who was suffering from a severe case of altitude sickness. We were very concerned and tried to help reassure her. The manager used an Oximeter to measure her blood-Oxygen level and decided that she would need to be sent back to lower altitude via chopper first thing in the morning.
We woke up the next morning with much excitement as we would finally reach the Everest Base Camp that day. It would also be one of the longest and hardest days of hiking. The terrain was quite difficult to walk on, since it was mostly filled with boulders strewn on top of the Khumbu glacier. We reached Gorak Shep (17,000 feet), where we would be spending that night. After dropping off our bags and a quick lunch, we headed towards Everest Base Camp. The trail to the base camp is mostly on boulders along the glacier and then finally drops down to the glacier itself where the base camp is located. We spent at least a couple of hours at the base camp, clicking pictures till we were satisfied. We imagined the flurry of activities that would be centered around this spot catering to climbers from various countries during peak climbing season. We added our prayer flag, that we had purchased at Gorak Shep, to the other ones at the base camp as was the custom there. We walked up to see the Khumbu Icefall with it’s numerous crevasses, where many Sherpas and climbers face their end each year trying to traverse it on their way to the summit. Funnily enough, Everest is not visible from the Everest Base Camp.
The next morning, we woke up at 4 AM to hike up a mountain called Kala Patthar (18,500 feet) where we would get the best view of Mt. Everest so far. It was so cold that morning that we stuffed our gloves and socks with a bunch of heat-generating patches as our fingers and toes were completely frozen. We slowly made our way up in the darkness, with just our headlights to guide us. We got to see the spectacular scene of the sun rising over the Himalayas and it’s rays falling over Everest during this hike.
After this we started our return journey back to Lukla. What took us 7 days on the way up, would take just 3 days to get back because on the way down there was no need to acclimatize and our lungs were happy for the increased levels of Oxygen. At Dingboche, we said goodbye to Jeremy, Abhinay and Pranav as they had made plans to summit Island Peak (20,300 feet) before returning. They were a bit apprehensive since summiting Island Peak was quite technical and they had to scale an almost-vertical wall of ice of 330 feet to reach the summit. Wishing them good luck, we made our way back to Lukla and then spent a relaxing day in Kathmandu before getting on our return flights.